Retinol Is Like A Workout For Your Skin
If there is one topic all of my clients have questions about, it’s retinol. I like to explain it using the analogy of exercise, since both of them work by breaking down in order to rebuild stronger and they require finesse and consistency for best results.
WHAT IS RETINOL?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A that acts as the catalyst for many essential functions of the skin such as cell production, collagen formation, damage repair, and tissue normalization (all things you want more of, regardless of your skin type). You naturally pull vitamin A from your diet to make that happen, but since the skin can be influenced both ways, using a topical form can super-charge the skin.
WHY IS IT A TRICKY INGREDIENT?
The skin is a barrier organ, made to protect you from environmental invaders, water loss, and the ever-changing elements. When the skin is given a hefty dose of vitamin A, it acts as a stimulant and tells the skin to make (and get rid of) cells at a faster rate. In theory, incredible. The caveat presents when the skin is signaled to shed rapidly, as the thinning of the barrier function hinders its protection abilities, causing an immune response. Depending on your skin type and the other products you’re using, this can mean dry, peeling, red, itchy, and imbalanced skin.
SO HERE’S THE REFRAME— TREAT IT LIKE A WORKOUT
Everyone knows you have to train slowly to run a marathon. And even still, when you’ve arrived at the capable place, rest days and variance in movement type is paramount. Retinol is a stimulant that tells the skin to go faster— this is both the benefit and drawback, which is why you have to respect it. You want to use retinol for the long haul, so don’t push your skin past its limits and burn yourself out. Think of it as a regenerative treatment step in your routine— signal high intensity breakdown followed by low impact days for the rebuild.
Because everyone is at a different place in their skin health journey, I can’t recommend a one-size-fits-all regimen, but I can give you these fool proof tips:
Layer hydrators under retinol to give your skin nourishment before the stimulant. It will still absorb and get where it needs to go, but without as much drying and irritation. In a complete lineup, layer— serum, cream, retinol, oil.
Don’t use it every night. Cycle in different types of exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs, or enzymes) for a varied treatment approach or simply leverage rest days if your skin is on the sensitive/dry side (I prefer a combination of both).
Wear SPF daily, even on rest days. Retinol makes you more photosensitive, which can end up having the opposite effects on sun damage if you aren’t careful. Not to be feared, just be mindful. In direct sun exposure, wear a hat.
Start slow. You’ll be in this skin for the rest of your life, easy does it. The idea with using retinol long term is that as your skin’s natural ability to replace and regenerate itself slows down, you up the amount and/or percentage of retinol used to keep it going. The skin cannot possibly “smooth” itself out quickly, just like there is no silver bullet that replaces the power of daily movement. Trust that it will work its magic with time and consistency.
I offer virtual skin consultations for personalized guidance. Through a full skin and goal assessment we will get clear on what your ideal product and skin treatment regimen is.